Brothers BBQ

There are two distinct kinds of barbecue: Barbecue that tastes like it was cooked by a master, and barbecue that tastes like it was cooked by your Uncle Larry at his annual Fourth of July backyard picnic.

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Brothers' barbecue? That's Uncle Larry through and through. It's not that the stuff is bad — because really, so long as you're talking pulled pork and ribs, there isn't such a thing as bad barbecue. But it ain't good, either. Still, after suffering through several meals at Bono's Bar-B-Q, a Florida-based chain, I figured that it was time to return to an outlet of Brothers — a born-and-bred Colorado chain, founded by the British O'Sullivan brothers in 1998. Particularly since that time coincided with the Friday of Memorial Day weekend, an ideal time to sit down with a couple of colleagues, drink too many beers and eat ourselves stupid. But after several beers, a dozen ribs and a pound of pulled pork shoulder, I had to stand by my Uncle Larry theory: The meats at Brothers don't begin to stack up against those of Denver's best pits. They could come off of anyone's smoke-blackened and charry backyard grill, a mess of carbon and over-saucing, poorly cut, varying wildly in levels of smoke, levels of tenderness. The ribs were a mess of tradition and short-cuttery, grill-charred and wet with sauce, the pulled pork an unidentifiable mix of Carolina succulence and roadhouse sweat, spiked with a thin sauce and cooked both too little and at too low a heat.

But the sides were surprisingly good. I had a bucket of fine potato salad, perhaps a bit heavy on the mayo but filled with good, properly cooked potatoes and just a hint of relish and mustard. And the beans were excellent — big and fat, in a brown-sugar sauce studded with chunks of charred and chopped pork. Still, those sides weren't enough to make me go back — not when the ribs were done so poorly they required a mop of overpowering sauce just to rise to the level of edible.

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Related Locations

miles
Brothers BBQ

568 Washington St.
Denver, CO 80203

720-570-4227

www.brothers-bbq.com

miles
Brothers BBQ

6449 Leetsdale Dr.
Denver, CO 80224

303-322-3289

www.brothers-bbq.com

miles
Brothers BBQ

9069 E. Arapahoe Rd.
Englewood, CO 80111

303-799-9777

www.brothers-bbq.com


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