With my review ofSteuben's
now off the stands (read the October 5 "American Idyll"
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) and all questions of owner Josh Wolkon's American obsessions and searches for provenance and origin answered, we can get down to the truly important matter raised by his menu: namely, where is the best green chile cheeseburger?
Bear in mind, I'm looking for the best green chile cheeseburger in Denver, not the best overall. Anyone who knows anything knows that the very best are made at the Owl Bar in San Antonio, New Mexico. The burgers at Steuben's are actually a copy of those done at the Owl Cafe in Albuquerque (with the addition of a challah roll and a bigger-than-average patty). An
My late-night local fave is the Cherry Cricket's white-cheddar-and-green-chile burger washed down with two Genny Cream Ales and a Jameson's back -- though only when the house is busy, the kitchen backed up and the cooks rushed enough that my rare burger actually comes bloody and soaking through the bun.
What's your favorite? If there's some little hole-in-the-wall joint in your neighborhood doing killer chile cheeseburgers, I want to know about it. If there's some massive chain operation with a green chile burger buried on the menu, let me hear it. If you've got a place that you've been keeping under your hat, now is the time to stand up and be counted. This is a flat-out burger battle, folks. Whose side are you on? -- Jason Sheehan