There's nothing fancy about Country Time BBQ, a true barbecue shack tucked into a business park on West Hampden that uses a couple of parking-lot pits to feed its take-out and catering operation. But then, I'm never exactly looking for white tablecloths when I'm after sauced-up smoked meat.
This building is the outgrowth of Lawrence Barkers's barbecue hobby, an obsession that five years ago pushed him to quit his job and open up a restaurant with then-wife (and current business partner) Jennifer.
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Like most Colorado barbecue joints, Country Time doesn't adhere to any particular region for its 'cue recipes -- but while the Barkerses borrow from many different traditions, they've also established a style that's distinctly their own.