Gaetano's: A taste of this week's review
I can only imagine what Chauncey Smaldone, the youngest of the loan-sharking, book-making Smaldone brothers, would've said when Lou's Food Bar hung out its shingle down the street. For decades, Smaldone ran Gaetano's, a cherished Italian-American restaurant that his family founded in 1947, and he no doubt would've seen Lou's -- owned by Frank Bonanno, a Jersey boy of Sicilian descent -- as cause for a turf war, especially when Lou's started beating Gaetano's at its own game.
But by the time Lou's had upstaged Gaetano's as a neighborhood favorite, nabbing a 2011 Best of Denver award for Best Spaghetti and Meatballs and becoming the restaurant that parents take kids to when no one wants to cook, Smaldone was already seated at the great gambling table in the sky, and Gaetano's was in corporate hands. And instead of settling the score with nighttime raids, the current owners of Gaetano's, BW Holdings, took a decidedly more modern approach: They knocked down walls, revamped the menu, and hired a new chef.... Hungry to know more? Read the full review of Gaetano's here. See also: - Mob rule: Is a meal at the revamped Gaetano's an offer you can't refuse? - Photos: Behind the scenes at Gaetano's - Lou's Food Bar has a fan at the New York Times
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Denver dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.
More Food & Drink News
- Small Is Big: A Second Helping of Westword Food & Drink, September 28 - October 2
- Get a Taste of Il Porcellino Tonight, Before It Opens in Late October in Berkeley
- Friday Night Bazaar Transforms to Night Bazaar Denver With New Location Starting Tonight
- Reader: Complaints About Quality of Barbecue Should Focus on Quality of Transplants