Guard and Grace bills itself as a "modern steakhouse." Does it meat expectations?
A modern steak at a modern steakhouse.
Four years ago when I was the restaurant critic for a now-defunct publication, I reviewed Shanahan's Steakhouse. At the time, the executive chef told me he was trying to create a menu that was "a lot more modern," but I as noted in my review, the beef was corn-fed and sourced out-of-state, making it seem more traditional than contemporary.
Fast forward to 2014. When restaurateur Troy Guard opened Guard and Grace Guard and Grace in March, he used similar terminology, referring to his sprawling, splashy venture downtown as a "modern steakhouse." See also: First look at Guard and Grace
The restaurant certainly has some modern twists: The setting is stunning, with a bright lounge comfortable bar and elegant dining area.
The menu gives guests the choice of prime, Angus or grass-fed beef, all raised in Colorado and dry-aged for 28 days, and served in portions ranging from 4 to 22 ounces, which is helpful if you settle in for cocktails and appetizers and later decide you're in the mood for steak. But those steaks also have very traditional steakhouse prices.
Does Guard and Grace live up to its "modern steakhouse" billing -- and big-ticket expectations? Find out when my review is posted here tomorrow.
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