At this tiny Thai temple, stashed in a strip mall that's nearly invisible from the street, the one-woman kitchen turns out generous plates and bowls of curries, noodles and stir-fries from the straight-ahead Americanized Thai menu. Go late in the afternoon, however, after the lunch crush has subsided, and you'll witness the staff foraging from platters heaped with head-on shrimp and tucking into other Thai dishes that don't appear on the menu. Profess your interest, and it's likely that you'll be invited to share in the feast.
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