For anyone who believes that Sushi Den and Sushi Sasa are the only two players when it comes to slicing and dicing the raw stuff, you're wrong: Here, at this unheralded shrine to the ocean, ambitions run as high as the waves in a wrathful sea, and the sushi and sashimi, plated, if you ask, with fresh Japanese wasabi -- so much better than the pasty stuff in the tube -- is exquisite. So, too, is the service, which is some of the most effervescent I've come across in a sushi bar -- or anywhere. And the thick menu, stamped with wonderments from the land and sea, also includes cold soba noodles, several variations of udon and bento boxes.
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