Smother love: It's easy being green in Denver in September and October, when the smell of roasting chiles overrides the odor of exhaust along Federal Boulevard, and the green chile at your favorite Mexican joint carries the heat of the new harvest.
For the next several weeks, Cafe Society will feature some of our favorite green chiles. We started with Phil's Place, and continued through El Tejado, La Fiesta, Bonnie Brae Tavern, Benny's, Lola, Mezcal, Zingers, Senor Burrito's, Mexico City Lounge, La Loma, El Taco de Mexico, Los Carboncitos , La Fogata, Little Anita's and the Local.
Of all the green chile that we've inhaled over the last few months, this one may be my favorite. Tart with tomatillos, specked with oregano and judiciously jolted with heat, it's the perfect cloak for everything it drapes, including the barbacoa burrito, a medieval-size bomb glutted with twines of whisper-tender, long-stewed lamb that's robust and pure of flavor.
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Can you guess where I'm eating green chile?