Smother love: It's easy being green in Denver in September, when the smell of roasting chiles overrides the odor of exhaust along Federal Boulevard, and the green chile at your favorite Mexican joint carries the heat of the new harvest.
For the next several weeks, Cafe Society will feature some of our favorite green chiles. We started last week with Phil's Place, and continued through El Tejado, La Fiesta, Bonnie Brae Tavern and a still-unidentified spot where green chile makes a very occasional, but delicious, appearance.
For many people in Denver, this green chile is the definitive version of a dish that's unique to Colorado: a hot, gravy-like sauce that is very rarely green. And except for degrees of heat that change slightly with the chile season, the recipe hasn't changed since the restaurant's owner was cooking it up in the kitchen of the Oak Alley Inn thirty years ago.
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Can you guess where I'm eating green chile?