There's not much to look at in the dining room of Hong Kong Barbecue, a modestly decorated spot in the middle of a South Federal Boulevard strip mall. So while you wait for your food, your eyes inevitably fix on the glowing case of glistening roasted ducks spotlighted in one corner of the room.
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You can order those ducks for dinner -- and that's just one of the meaty options at this spot owned by Sun and Jian Yu, a couple from Hong Kong who wanted to offer Denver an authentic taste of their home country. The massive menu features dishes from regions of China, a vast lineup that includes comfort food, familiar items and oddities not often found in Denver.
For this week's review, I did my best to at least scratch the surface of Hong Kong Barbecue's substantial culinary canon, And I definitely tried the duck, of course.