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I brake for the Denver Biscuit Company

Do not try eating the Franklin from the Denver Biscuit Co. on the run.
Do not try eating the Franklin from the Denver Biscuit Co. on the run.
Mark Manger

Since when does a 30 percent chance mean it's actually going to rain? I mean, come on -- this is Denver we're talking about. I know we're in a drought, but you'd think the clouds could have had the decency to hold their drops until the afternoon: Monday mornings are hard enough without the additional challenge of being all drippy and gray.

So there I was yesterday, windshield wipers tapping, red lights reflecting off the wet pavement on East Colfax, when I spotted the Denver Biscuit Co. On a whim, I pulled in and ordered a biscuit to go. Three minutes later I was back in the car, the buttery smell of my gigantic biscuit filling the air. See also: -Atomic Cowboy's pair of restaurants, Fat Sully's and Denver Biscuit Company, might make you stay forever - Tables: The family operation is both comfortable and surprising - Good execution turns into good pizza at Lucky Pie

Drew and Ashleigh Shader at Atomic Cowboy.
Drew and Ashleigh Shader at Atomic Cowboy.
Mark Manger

Early on, Drew and Ashleigh Shader, the founders of Atomic Cowboy, decided this part of Colfax could use a couple of comfortable eateries as well as a bar, so they introduced Fat Sully's, which serves pizza late at night, and the Denver Biscuit Company, which is open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and offers fresh-baked buttermilk biscuits every day.

I like to make my own biscuits -- that way the whole house smells good, not just the car. But what a biscuit this was: hot to the touch, with a golden top and a mound of flaky middle just begging for butter and jam. I hate biscuits that are pale and don't have crunchy edges, because they get gummy when you chew them. I liked the way this biscuit separated into layers and how it was slightly misshapen, making it feel homemade. Plus it was huge, so it wasn't gone in two bites!

I wish I had one now.

I try hard not to link food with emotions, but let's be honest: Some foods really do bring joy. In my review this week, I'll look at another place in town that serves biscuits and other Southern-style comfort food. Is Sassafras American Eatery worth a detour the next time the forecast calls for rain? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.


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