Lao Wang Noodle House is closed for remodeling -- and there's a liquor license in the works

An uncontrollable craving for xiao long bao (aka Shanghai dumplings, aka soup dumplings, aka heaven) hit early this afternoon, and there was one obvious place to feed the beast: Lao Wang Noodle House, the Taiwanese joint that makes a kick-ass basket of the buns. But as we pulled off Federal...

By Laura Shunk

March 29, 2011

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An uncontrollable craving for xiao long bao (aka Shanghai dumplings, aka soup dumplings, aka heaven) hit early this afternoon, and there was one obvious place to feed the beast: Lao Wang Noodle House, the Taiwanese joint that makes a kick-ass basket of the buns.

But as we pulled off Federal Boulevard and into the strip mall that houses Lao Wang, we noticed that the eatery was dark, and the familiar noise of demolition was coming from within.

We feared the worst -- but a sign on the window assured us that Lao Wang is only closed until Thursday, March 31, for remodeling.

And now for the good news: a liquor license application is also posted in the restaurant's window, which means that after eleven dry years, we'll finally be able to pair our xiao long bao (and beef noodle soup and pigs ears) with crisp beer.

When I reviewed the place, Danny Wang, the Wangs' son, told me that his parents were planning on landing a liquor license so that they could sell beer from his brewery, CAUTION: Brewing Co. It looks like they're finally making good on that promise.

Lao Wang will have its liquor-license hearing at the Denver Department of Excise and Licenses on April 8.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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