Mouthing Off

Other fish in the sea: For once I'm going to do myself a favor and head off the inevitable phone calls I get anytime I write something like "Denver has about five decent fish houses." (For a review of a sixth, Starfish, see the previous page.) So for the record, here are the seafood restaurants I recommend: McCormick's Fish House and Bar, at 1659 Wazee Street, for the town's best oyster roster and excellent upscale dining; Mesquite House East (9668 East Arapahoe Road, Englewood), on the opposite end of the spectrum, and its sister, Mesquite House Seafood (901 South Oneida), for their killer Manhattan clam chowder, mesquite-permeated salmon and self-serve, fast-food atmosphere. Although the Cherry Crest Market and Restaurant, at 5909 South University Boulevard in Littleton, has no atmosphere to speak of, the seafood is always fresh and the kitchen usually smart enough to leave well enough alone. For more involved preparations (i.e., creative sauces), I'm happy to have Mostly Seafood back in operation in its old stamping grounds, this time at 2223 South Monaco Parkway (the 16th Street Mall branch never was as good). The new location takes over the spot vacated by the Gourmet Seafood Cafe, which wasn't able to keep its head above water after the new owners changed it from the popular Marvin Gardens to the eclectic but unfocused Cafe. And for the best fish-and-chips--no alcohol, but thick planks of batter-fried cod more than make up for that lack--head to Yorkshire Fish & Chips, at 7275 Pecos.

Something fishy: Gee--I wonder what inspired Denny's to run a recent newspaper ad for Grand Slam breakfasts that featured a black couple sitting in a bucolic wheatfield--without a hashbrown in sight. Could it have been that racially charged conflict at the Glendale Denny's about this time last year? Or some of the bad ink the chain has received nationally? Here's a clue: At the bottom of the ad is a line that reads, "Denny's is committed to providing the best possible service to all customers regardless of race, creed, color or national origin."

The ad was produced by a black-owned agency. Let's hope that the Hispanic-owned ad agency Denny's just hired to help with its first Hispanic advertising campaign does something a little more believable--say, a Hispanic couple sitting in a cornfield.

See food, eat it: June is seafood month at the Tuscany in the Loews-Giorgio Hotel, 4150 East Mississippi Avenue, which means fresh Maine lobster on the weekends and a "Wines of Italy" dinner June 28 and 29 that will match vino with fish...The Fort will celebrate Buffalo Bill's 150th birthday on June 2--not with fish, of course, but with lots of buffalo dishes...Food is the secondary focus of the third annual LoDo BrewFest, scheduled for June 22 and 23 from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. at 19th and Wynkoop. Thirty microbreweries and brewpubs will pour six-ouncers for a buck apiece, and Colorado wineries have been invited this year, too. And yes, there'll be plenty of food... Also in LoDo, the great farmer's market at Market and 17th will start up again on June 29, with locally grown produce for sale on Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., through October.

--Kyle Wagner


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