I often wonder if New Orleans boosters rue the day that a bartender invented the Hurricane, the city's most popular cocktail. Prior to August 2005, when I thought of New Orleans, I thought of Mardi Gras, Jazzfest, Bourbon Street, bead-throwing, boob-showing and Hurricanes at Pat O'Brien's -- in that order. Today, the first thing I think about is Hurricanes -- as in Katrina. I think of "Heckuva job, Brownie," and "I don't think anybody anticipated the breach of the levees." As much as I think about Katrina, though, I've done little to help out -- apart from sending money during the celebrity-laden marathon when George Clooney asked me personally. But the folks at Jax are doing much more than just thinking about the disaster that affected thousands of oyster beds and the people who make their living from them. During March, Jax is featuring food and drink specials at both the Denver and Boulder locations (nightly oyster deals, nine oysters for $9, oyster-eating contests, etc.) that benefit the Louisiana Oyster Community Relief Fund, which is helping to rebuild oyster beds in the Gulf of Mexico and aiding the Davis Phinney Foundation and the Young Fund (for details, go to http://oystermonth.com). I did my bit by ordering the New Orleans Pearish ($7, $2 of that for charity) made from Grey Goose La Poire, Absolut Vanilia and Lavender Lemon Syrup. Unlike the undrinkable Absolut Pears, La Poire adds just a light essence of pear. Coupled with a hint of Lavender, the drink is more strong than sugary -- just the way anyone who loves New Orleans likes it. So call the National Guard, let the floodgates open, pour me another New Orleans Pearish -- and put that bitch Katrina out of your mind.