Our Weekly Bread: Duffeyroll Cafe

Our Weekly Bread: Duffeyroll Cafe

The sandwich: Hummus Florentine What's on it: Scrambled eggs, spinach, homemade hummus, cheddar cheese, tomato on rosemary ciabatta Where to get it: Duffeyroll Café (1290 South Pearl Street, 303-753-9177) How much: $5.95

I dare you to tell me not to eat a breakfast sandwich at 2 p.m. Seriously. I dare you.

Breakfast sandwiches are one of the simplest, purest mediums in the sandwich-making sandwich arts. Breakfast comes early in the day, so it needs to be solid. But it also needs to be simple. There are fewer items involved --- typically eggs, cheese, bacon, sausage, hash browns. In fact, a breakfast sandwich is really just a breakfast plate planted between the useless pieces of toast that always come on the side (white, wheat or sourdough?).

And yet, breakfast sandwiches get little respect. They are almost always an afterthought, and there are those around town who feel that Denver truly lacks a good breakfast sammie -- a fallacy if ever there was one (take a bite of the Deli Zone's Kong, just for starters).

Still, a bad breakfast sandwich can make for a bad day, which is why a) it's so important to focus on the details, and b) I like to eat them at 2 p.m. just in case.

Duffeyroll Café makes a good breakfast, one that is as comforting as a Sunday morning under the sheets and as well-put-together as an Israeli supermodel.

I went with the Hummus Florentine because I can't just stick with something normal. When I pulled back the foil, I was greeted with the aesthetically pleasing sight of an almost completely square ciabatta roll, sliced diagonally. The roll was hearty and still plenty warm. Inside was a layer of eggs (I'm not sure if I'd call them scrambled; more like a thick omelet) covered in gooey cheddar and layered with spinach and tomato.

The hummus, as you might expect, added an interesting dynamic. I'm not sure if I'd go with hummus on a breakfast sandwich again, but it tasted fine. Plus, I think there is a law that every sandwich sold between Alameda and Florida avenues, Grant and Gilpin streets has to have hummus on it.

The only drawback here was the rosemary in the rosemary roll. I like rosemary, but here it was so powerful that it buried all the other flavors beneath its herby might.

The breakfast sandwiches are a buck cheaper than Duffeyroll's lunch fare, and they come with one of the café's famous cinnamon rolls. And that, my friends, is how you start - or finish - a good day.


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