When brothers Cesar, Roberto and Ignacio Leon said they planned to open a new restaurant last year, they didn't suggest it would be yet another Los Carboncitos, the successful taqueria on West 38th Avenue that has spawned a few locations in the Mile High City.
Instead, they intended to fill a gap they saw in Denver's Mexican dining options: establishing an upscale restaurant that would go beyond street food, offering a menu of Mexican dishes that belonged in a full-service, special occasion-worthy joint. And last August, they unveiled that eatery -- named Paxia, for "peace" -- in the Sunnyside neighborhood.
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Los Carboncitos has been one of my favorite Mexican joints in the city since I first ate there almost five years ago, so I was eager to see what the brothers had done with their new spot. For this week's review, I returned to Paxia, eating my way through much of the lunch and dinner menu, both of which are vastly different from the eclectic board at the taqueria located just a few blocks away.