Because Richard Sandoval has so many restaurants to keep track of, because he is one of those multi-unit chefs who seems driven to collect addresses the way some kids collect baseball cards, he has no day-to-day control over his properties. He sets a concept, writes a menu, staffs up with trusted lieutenants, (sometimes) trains a crew and then unlocks the doors. His business is not so much about creating great restaurants as it is about creating great food-service machines that can run flawlessly in his absence. But there’s nothing wrong with that -- so long as customers understand the situation going in. Richard Sandoval is not assembling your tacos. His chef de cuisine is; it’s his job to translate Sandoval’s vision to every plate.
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SHOW ME HOW
And what do you get on every plate? Well, to find out that you’re just going to have to check out this week’s review of Sandoval’s newest: La Sandia in the Stapleton development. Following that, we’ve got a discussion about celebrity chefs and why they (with the exception of Sandoval) so adamantly refuse to come to Denver, some news about the recent closures and a visit to an old favorite Sandoval address: Zengo over on Little Raven Street.
Oh, and I also get to kick Rocco DiSpirito around a little more. That’s always fun. -- Jason Sheehan