As Gretchen Kurtz notes in her review of The Kitchen Denver, much of the menu is devoted to starters and small plates. Why?
To find out, she went straight to the source, Hugo Matheson, chef/co-founder of the Kitchen empire that now includes four restaurants. "Being able to eat without having to commit or feel guilty for spending sixty dollars on a full meal, that's the reason behind the starters," he told her. Besides, he added, "you can have fun with them as a chef and a customer."
But how much fun are they for the customer?
See also: - The Kitchen's Hughe Matheson thinks small...with a big list of starters - Attention to detail would safeguard the Kitchen's brand in Denver (review) - Behind the scenes at the Kitchen Denver (slide show)
Well, because I used to work in the restaurant/catering biz I cast a pretty cynical eye on the small plate phenom. I'm pretty good at estimating food cost and what I am seeing in most (especially higher end) places is that appetizer (small plate) portions have remained small indeed while their prices have crept up to pretty close to entree prices. Your better value is to share entree-sized portion especially if you are sharing with more than one other person.
If you like this story, consider signing up for our email newsletters.
SHOW ME HOW
Are small plates no big deal? Post your thoughts below.