"Over the years," Gretchen Kurtz writes in her review of Ophelia's, "I’ve come to think of Justin Cucci as a mad genius, twirling his thumbs and cackling as he ponders what dominion to conquer next. Who else could take a gas station and some vegetables and make Root Down one of the coolest seats in town? Who else could turn a funeral parlor into the four-story party boat that is Linger, or dish up such good airport food that travelers at Root Down DIA practically toast delays? With Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox, which opened in the Ballpark neighborhood this spring, Cucci has hatched his raciest — and riskiest — plan yet, and it’s every bit as maddening as it is genius." The Ophelia's concept is so intense, she concludes, that Cucci should remember that less is sometimes more.
Concetta agrees on the "mad genius" bit — if not Gretchen's conclusion: