One of the thrills of a dining scene as mature as Denver’s is that chefs who could helm destination restaurants reach out to neighbors instead, Gretchen Kurtz writes in her recent review of Sarto's. But so far chef-partner Brian Laird's food at Sarto's is less straightforward than its mission of creating a "community-driven eatery," she says.
And FrancoMarini agrees with that review.
If you like this story, consider signing up for our email newsletters.
SHOW ME HOW
You have successfully signed up for your selected newsletter(s) - please keep an eye on your mailbox, we're movin' in!
Very well written.
I was born, grew up and went to school in Parma, Italy so I'm always on the search of a good Italian spot. Our group sat at the chef's counter, we tasted quite a few dishes and all I can say is that the food at Sarto's is a very confusing mishmash of too many ingredients, complicated and disjointed flavors — exactly the opposite of what true Italian cuisine is supposed to be. The pasta that we tasted had a watery, metallic-tasting sauce that not even the chef could explain, the fish was overcooked, the sweetbreads tasted very bitter like they had not been cleaned properly. We left very disappointed. Italian food is all about simplicity and proper execution...which, sadly, we didn't find here.