Restaurant Reviews

Review: Butcher's Bistro Sounds Meaty, But Where's the Beef?

Butcher's Bistro 2233 Larimer Street 303-296-2750

Journalists are taught not to "bury the lede," which is newspaper-speak for remembering to put the most important information first. If you're writing about a fire, for example, you don't want to wait until the tenth paragraph to tell people when and where the blaze occurred and that two people were injured. I was thinking about this reporter's rule over dinner recently at Butcher's Bistro, a meat-centric eatery that opened last fall in the former home of twelve, because its owners seem to have done just that. Rather than play up what makes this restaurant newsworthy -- whole-animal butchery, nose-to-tail offerings and a butcher case by the door -- they've buried the lede, to the point that you might as well be eating at Any Name Bistro.

See also: Behind the Scenes at Butcher's Bistro

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz