Review Preview: Tao Tao Noodle Bar

Chopsticks China Bistro held down the corner of Federal and Mississippi for four years, turning out stellar Chinese cuisine that spanned Szechuan specialties, Taiwanese soup dumplings and sandwiches. We loved the place, and we were sad to see it go when it ditched its digs on Federal to move to...

By Laura Shunk

July 26, 2011

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Chopsticks China Bistro held down the corner of Federal and Mississippi for four years, turning out stellar Chinese cuisine that spanned Szechuan specialties, Taiwanese soup dumplings and sandwiches. We loved the place, and we were sad to see it go when it ditched its digs on Federal to move to the suburbs, taking over a larger space and serving a more Americanized menu supplemented by alcohol, thanks to a shiny new liquor license.

Unfortunately, the second incarnation of Chopsticks just wasn't as good.

Sometimes a restaurant needs a fresh start, and that's what owners David Lee and May Sung got when their Greenwood Village outpost was shuttered for failure to pay taxes last year. The couple relocated to Aurora and opened Tao Tao Noodle Bar near Lowry in a small building -- and they did so without a liquor license or a dumbed down concept.

I stopped by Tao Tao for this week's review, eating my way through a menu that more closely resembles the original Chopsticks than its suburban predecessor.

How was the food? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

Contact: Laura Shunk

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