Snooze Julius

You're getting sleepy. There's nothing more disappointing than loving a restaurant but hating the service -- as my recent visit to Snooze so sadly showed. I knew we'd have to wait for a table during Sunday's prime brunch hours, especially after the eatery appeared on an episode of The Real World: Denver, and I was undaunted by the estimated twenty-minute wait. I enjoyed Snooze's lively, jam-packed quarters, but I quickly dismissed the idea of ordering a pre-seating concoction; the place was so crammed, there was no way I could make it to the bar without fear of bodily harm. So my anticipation of the regulation Sunday "eye opener" was intense by the time we were finally seated, and we quickly ordered cocktails from our drowsy waitress -- who, to be kind, was asleep at the wheel. Twenty minutes after taking our order, she explained our lack of drinks (to say she apologized would be overstating it) by telling us that the bartender was very busy. My guess is he was getting in his forty winks, too. Just as I thought we were all going to doze off, the drinks finally showed -- and fortunately, they were worth the wait. The Snooze Julius ($6), made with Absolut Mandrin, Grand Marnier, orange juice and whipped cream, was an astonishing adult duplication of the Orange Julius that we'd get as kids at the old Buckingham Mall. And the Morning Manhattan ($6) now makes me think of what I'm missing every time I order a latte. Made with shots of espresso, Knob Creek Bourbon, Irish Cream and a splash of cherry juice, it had just enough liquor to let me know I was having a cocktail without reminding me that I was really drinking. In the end, even the slow service at Snooze had its benefits: We finished up brunch just in time for the requisite Sunday-afternoon cat nap.


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