Henry Coleman, owner and head cook at the new Coleman’s Soul Food (which moved into the old home of Ethel’s House of Soul shortly after it closed in January), knows from Detroit soul food, Detroit comfort food, Detroit’s streetside, slap-dash, eat-while walking cuisine. He’s a veteran lunch-wagon cook from that city, a guy who knows his way around a vat of potato salad, a crock of greens and pork chops done in the pan. From behind the rail of his kitchen at Coleman’s, he does all of this—knocking up specials (roasted barbecue chicken breast with greens and rice and gravy on my most recent visit), baking the cornbread, slow-cooking his brisket and hot-links.
Before I headed off to the East Coast, I made it to Coleman’s for some fried chicken.
And why I do dearly miss Ethel’s House of Soul, which occupied this spot for 37 years, I think that, given time, Coleman’s might be able to grow into the storied address. It’s certainly gotten a good start.
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SHOW ME HOW
While my finding time for a little pre-flight fried chicken might not be much of a surprise to anyone, I also managed to squeeze a little news-sniffing in before getting on the plane. So in Bite Me, there's an update from Olav Peterson on Bistro One -- which opened just last week -- and some big news from Duy Pham about his newest venture.
And trust me, no matter what you think it is, you’re wrong.
By the time this issue hits the web and the streets, I'll be back from the sweltering East, back in the saddle, and ready for another Colorado summer. -- Jason Sheehan