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Sugar High: Santa Fe Cookie Co.

Sugar High: Santa Fe Cookie Co.
Liz Kellermeyer
Here's a formula you wouldn't think would work for a bakery in the middle

of downtown Denver: Customers enter at one end of a shop, drop a dollar into a

giant plastic jug, retrieve a small paper bag filled with three

fresh-from-the-oven cookies and exit out the other end. There's no greeting, no

register, no hemming and hawing or custom orders holding up the line.

Debbie

Kuehn, owner of the Santa Fe Cookie Co., 303 16th Street, has been called the

"Cookie Nazi," a title that makes her laugh. "People are used to being waited on, and they get mad that we don't do that, but I don't think they get that customer service

isn't part of the price," reasons Kuehn. But really, who cares about pomp and circumstance when you can get three cookies for a buck?

Customers can choose from bags

filled with a single flavor, or ones with a mixed selection. Depending on the

day, you might also see cupcakes, brownies or muffins, all available for a

song. It's one of the best deals in town.


The self-serve bakery concept happened organically. Kuehn supplies cookie

dough balls to local ski resorts, though one of the resorts prefers them already baked. The smell of hot cookies wafting from the

bakery was too much for some cookie addicts, so Kuehn

started leaving bags of cookies out, along with a jar where people could drop their money. Eventually, the business grew to what it is now: a regular

cookie fix.

 
We decided to live on the edge and grabbed a bag with three different

flavors: chocolate chip, peanut butter and oatmeal raisin. All of them were

scooped directly off warm trays and slipped into a bag moments before we

snatched it up. Though chocolate chip is the company's best seller, it was a touch oversalted for our taste. The peanut

butter, however, achieved the perfect salty-sweet balance and maintained a

crumbly edge around a softer center. That left the oatmeal raisin as the surprise favorite. The cookie was packed with plump raisins and held an almost

caramel-y center that melted on the tongue. 

 
Kuehn credits the success of the Santa Fe Cookie Co. to quality and a

simple system: "The cookies are cheap, really good, fast and easy," she explains. She also thinks

the honor system makes people feel good. "Sometimes," she says, "we'll hear

that we're the only place all day that's trusted someone."

 
Located in the lower level of the Republic Plaza, the Santa Fe Cookie Co., which received a Westword Best of award, is open Monday through

Friday, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

 
Three cookies: $1

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