On the bar menu: the prime rib burger.
On the bar menu: the prime rib burger.
Hunter Stevens

The Keg's prime rib burger is reason to belly up to the bar

After exploring the reinvented hamburgers at both Crave and Highland Tap and Burger for this week's reviews, I decided to belly up to the bar at the Keg in LoDo before a concert.

Stepping into the restaurant, one of many in a Canadian chain of meat temples, is like a trip back to the late 80s or early 90s, with the dark wood, oppressive color scheme and ostentatious paintings of martini glass-holding women in slinky dresses. And the prime rib burger is out of the same era, which is to say an era when prime rib dinners were a popular way to spend an evening out.

Luckily, the burger is timeless. Topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mayonnaise and a slab of cheddar, the toppings didn't exactly break new ground. But the burger itself -- juicy with drippy grease, velvety in texture, seasoned with salt and pepper and the tang of the grill -- was a vast improvement on regular old ground chuck. It was like meat candy, and it satisfied a carnivorous craving I didn't even know I had.

Sure, the Keg is a chain, and it feels a little dated in comparison to everything around it downtown. But that burger gave me a reason to belly up to the restaurant's bar again in the future.

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