I'd heard about Snooze long before it opened and was excited about the place, juiced to have a hip, eclectic, chef-driven breakfast joint in the Ballpark neighborhood. And then I finally got there in July 2006 and found the staff rude, the food uninspired and the vibe operating at such a gross level of aggressive cool that I wanted to punch myself in the face just for walking through the door. The disappointment felt like a personal betrayal.
But I got over it by January 2007, when I returned to Snooze — and discovered that while the service had improved marginally, the food was, if anything, even worse. And I swore that I would never return.
Except that I did. Recently, I'd been swamped with requests from otherwise trustworthy gastronauts to give Snooze one more chance. And last week, I ate there not once, but twice, and you know what? Finally, Snooze is capable of not just putting out a good spread, but doing it while getting crushed by the kind of rush that most restaurants only dream about these days. On Thursday morning, I stopped in for breakfast and had a stack of sweet-potato flapjacks glazed in bourbon caramel, sprinkled with roasted pecans and topped with a blob of ginger butter. Sure, the pancakes were overkill — sweet as a hundred kisses and a mish-mash of sultry Southern traditions — but overkill is better than underwhelming any day.
2262 Larimer Street
Still, the Snooze kitchen has always done pancakes reliably well, so on Friday I returned during the peak of the noon rush. And while, yes, the place was full to bursting, loud as hell and crowded with hung-over party girls showing their tramp stamps and ass cleavage (not necessarily a bad thing, mind you...), the host took time out from a busy floor to shim my wobbly table, and the kitchen took the time to actually make food that was thoughtful, well composed and delicious. My pulled-pork Benedict (which had some goofy name on the menu) featured pulled pork over three-cheese polenta cakes, topped with poached eggs and cheddar hollandaise; the dish was complex and perfectly presented, down to the smoked paprika topping the poachers. I'd also ordered some apple dandy pancakes, dressed in honey and peanuts and — save for the roasted pepper I found lurking among the chunks of apple — well executed by a seasoned kitchen that clearly now knows what it's about.
If you like this story, consider signing up for our email newsletters.
SHOW ME HOW
You have successfully signed up for your selected newsletter(s) - please keep an eye on your mailbox, we're movin' in!
At long last, I'm a fan of Snooze.