When I checked in with Jeff Osaka, chef/owner of twelverestaurant, last month, he told me that although he'd just opened his restaurant at 2233 Larimer in early November, he was already reducing the prices on his changing-monthly menu. (His concept of a dozen menus a year -- each featuring seasonal and, when possible, local ingredients -- inspired the name of his place.) At the time, I said I couldn't wait to see what he'd do in January. And now I have.
Osaka just released his third menu, this one ambitious and rich, yet bargain-priced: house-cured salmon and blini for $13, Thai red curry tilapia over rice for $25 and (best deal around) prime strip loin and short rib with salsify, braised lettuce and truffle for just $29. January's roster also features a half-dozen starters (including sweetbreads), special teas and an assortment of dessert wines.To see it all, go to the twelve website. -- Jason Sheehan