Westerkamps opened decades ago in north Denver as a grocery store serving a then-German neighborhood. The name remains, but the original owners are long gone -- as is the market concept, save for the butcher counter in one corner of the space that still peddles cuts of cow.
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That's because four years ago, current owner Chris Gonzales ditched the market-and-deli concept in favor of a steakhouse, and he's been serving up a board of ribeyes, loins and burgers made from fresh-ground chuck ever since. But that hearty fare isn't available for supper: Westerkamps Steakhouse and Meat Market is only open in the daytime and never on Sundays, when the place closes to honor God.
God also foiled one of my attempts to eat at the restaurant, which happened to coincide with Heavenfest. But once I finally made it through the door of this joint, I got a sensory experience beyond anything I could have expected.