What to Expect When Quality Italian Opens in the Halcyon Hotel

Quality Italian's tomahawk ribsteak comes with sauce prepared tableside with a mortar and pestle.EXPAND
Quality Italian's tomahawk ribsteak comes with sauce prepared tableside with a mortar and pestle.
Mark Antonation

The Halcyon Hotel at 245 Columbine Street in Cherry Creek is already home to one restaurant, Departure, as well as a secret-entry bar called Boys & Girls Club in the basement. But later this month, those two will be joined by Quality Italian, a New York City concept headed by restaurateur Michael Stillman.

The idea itself is very New York: an Italian-American eatery that specializes in steaks, pasta and seafood, all served with old-school tableside flair. While construction is currently walled off from curious eyes wanting a peek inside, the company's general M.O. is building restaurants that pay homage to Manhattan's vintage butcher shops, so while the dry-aged steaks, shellfish platters and elegant cocktails can lean toward the pricey side, the environment itself will be lively and convivial, not staid and stuffy.

Stillman, along with chef/partners Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli, unveiled a few dishes last night to let Denverites know what they're in for. The jaw-dropper on the menu is the Quality Parm-Pizza, which is served and sliced pizza-style (complete with seasoning shakers and honey), but turns out to be a fourteen-inch disk of breaded and fried chicken sausage topped with marinara and molten mozzarella. This one's sure to draw thrillseekers based on its reputation alone; Stillman says the New York Quality Italian sells about eighty a night.

This isn't a pizza; it's a giant chicken Parmesan made with chicken sausage instead of pizza crust.EXPAND
This isn't a pizza; it's a giant chicken Parmesan made with chicken sausage instead of pizza crust.
Mark Antonation

Nearly as dramatic is the dry-aged tomahawk chop, served on a cutting board with a pile of roasted veggies and a mortar and pestle that the server uses to whip up a steak sauce while you watch. And there's plenty more for fans of food served with a flourish. Baked clams are served in a sizzling pan and doused with sauce at your table to produce a steamy cloud of garlic-butter aroma, and whole prawns are split down the middle and grilled with uni (sea urchin) butter. On the bar side, a nitro-poured Negroni cascades like a pint of Guinness — beverage director Bryan Schneider says its a cocktail created for beer lovers — and a margarita comes with a tri-colored ice cube that flavors the cocktail as it melts (if you can wait that long before downing your drink).

Other bites capture the homey quality of Italian-American cooking, like garlic toast topped with sausage and peppers. But sophisticated hamachi and tuna crudos show off the kitchen's subtler side.

Stillman hopes to have Quality Italian open by the end of February; once the big reveal happens, the restaurant will be open for lunch and dinner seven days a week as well as weekend brunch. Keep reading for more food photos.

Yellowtail crudo in buttermilk and crème fraîche crema topped with sesame, broccoli rabe and lemon.EXPAND
Yellowtail crudo in buttermilk and crème fraîche crema topped with sesame, broccoli rabe and lemon.
Mark Antonation
Agnolotti stuffed with dry-aged porterhouse steak.EXPAND
Agnolotti stuffed with dry-aged porterhouse steak.
Mark Antonation
A lambrusco cocktail.EXPAND
A lambrusco cocktail.
Mark Antonation
Whole prawns split vertically and baked with uni butter.EXPAND
Whole prawns split vertically and baked with uni butter.
Mark Antonation
The house clams, topped with baked angel-hair pasta.EXPAND
The house clams, topped with baked angel-hair pasta.
Mark Antonation
Quality Italian's take on a margarita.EXPAND
Quality Italian's take on a margarita.
Mark Antonation
Sausage and peppers atop garlic toast.EXPAND
Sausage and peppers atop garlic toast.
Mark Antonation
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