Back of the house at the Empanada Express Grill

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Ramon Campos stuffs Arepas in the kitchen of Empanadas Express Grill.

Since that first meal, I've managed to work my way through every empanada on the menu. The pollo, strips of slightly dry and mildly spicy shredded chicken mixed with an almost imperceptible amount of cheese, was the least interesting -- but then, I usually think chicken is an inferior meat. I could also take or leave the pescao, which upset the ideal starch-to-protein ratio by mixing rice with the thin slices of white fish and chunks of tomato. But the rajas, which combined tart sour cream and smoky poblano peppers under a thick layer of melted cheese, was excellent. So was the ham and cheese, one of the most universal South American combinations and a favorite of mine. Continue reading Laura Shunk's review of Empanada Express Grill in Golden. Photos by Mark Manger.

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