There isn't a dud anywhere on the menu at Jan Leone's self-titled janleone: The Brie baked with brown sugar and walnuts and the escargot with Gorgonzola are splendid starters, and the carbonara pappardelle and seafood-stuffed lasagne are inspired entrees. Still, we confess to a certain soft spot for the desserts by Leone's daughter, Mara. Although the closing lineup changes periodically, highlights usually include a toasted pistachio cake with mascarpone cheese and a rich and unusual coffee-flavored panna cotta. Mara also does a semifreddo
, a chilled dessert that involves frozen mousse with copious amounts of whipped cream thrown in to add air pockets, making the dessert the perfect light but luscious finale for Jan's rich food. It tastes extra sweet when eaten in the attached Col-Mar bar while a local songstress belts out "Hello, Dolly."