If it was good enough for Clark Gable, the 128-year-old Cliff House is good enough for us -- but we don't know what Clark would make of that @ that's been added to the name. Never mind; such pesky thoughts will disappear the minute you step into the cream puff of a dining room, all Victorian splendor with its custard colors and pillowy-soft furnishings. The Cliff House's expert staff takes such good care of you that the service also seems to date from that gilded era, and the food makes it clear that your entire time at this meal, in this intimate room, in this delightful era, is intended to accentuate the sensual. (You hope she'll love you as much as she does the lobster-topped wild mushroom risotto.) But as gorgeous as the newly restored dining room looks -- particularly with that nineteenth-century stone fireplace -- it's nothing compared to the stunning, panoramic views of the Rockies outside. After dinner and star-gazing, slip into one of the Cliff House's plush suites and make plans for breakfast, which should include the kitchen's sumptuous steak -- that's filet mignon, of course -- and eggs, and for a post-prandial stop at one of the local hot springs. Frankly, my dear, you won't give a damn if you ever make it