The Saucy Noodle is back, and it's better than ever. Neither rain nor snow nor last spring's restaurant-gutting fire could put an end to this Denver institution. Today the Saucy Noodle is run by Erin and Nathan Markham -- original owner Sam Badis, Erin's dad, passed away five years ago -- and it has both an expanded space and a snazzy new look. But one thing remains a constant: the red sauce, the same quintessential version the kitchen's been cooking up since 1964. Sweet and smooth, with a faintly tart undertone and a rich, simmered-all-day consistency, the red goes with anything, but we particularly like it ladled over a plate of homemade spaghetti noodles, thick, chewy and al dente all the way, with a coupla fat meatballs on the side and a basket of bread. Is that Italian? You bet your noodle.