Wynkoop Brewing Co., Denver's oldest brewpub, sits in a historic building, and for a few years, the menu seemed as ancient as the space. But these days the kitchen is as hopping as what's brewing in those giant tanks, and the food is not only consistently good, it's cutting-edge fare. At no other brewpub would we be brave enough to try ahi tuna with a wasabe-based sauce and coconut sticky rice, or beer-battered rock shrimp with habanero-pineapple tartar sauce. And where else in town would the menu suggest you enjoy a stout with its charbroiled elk medallions in a brandy peppercorn sauce? Even the old standbys -- spicy, lamb-filled shepherd's pie, fish encased in a crackly batter made from the brewpub's own Railyard Ale -- taste better than ever. We toast the good pub grub at this Denver institution.