For East Coast transplants, there's only one way to do pizza properly -- and that's the way they've been doing it since day one at NY Pizzeria. The hands-down favorite of many ex-pat Big Apple kitchen crews in Denver, this slightly run-down strip-mall pie joint does everything right. The crusts are thin -- a little crispy, but pliable enough to fold. The toppings are basic, but they're the real McCoy -- real shredded mozzarella rather than mozzarella-flavored cheez product, Italian sausage and pepperoni, fresh veggies -- and the sauce is mild, a little sweet and not messed up with a lot of spices or chile powder. Most important, the 'za at NY Pizzeria has the grease: that mysterious orange oil that oozes out the back of every folded slice, burns your hand and ruins your best party shirt as soon as you take a bite.