Karin Lawler, who handles the stock for Clair de Lune's small, perfectly paired list, has turned away more grape-juice salesmen than she's talked to. Working closely with chef/owner Sean Kelly, Lawler keeps on board only those bottles that will blend elegantly with the ever-changing roster of plates coming out of Kelly's kitchen. Worried about not finding something drinkable? Don't be. The selections are well-chosen and interesting -- and if you have any questions at all, the waitstaff at Clair de Lune is always ready with a smart suggestion. In a pinch, they have bomber bottles of Chimay Red or Grand Reserve on hand -- and those go with everything.