White Fence Farm
Taylor Boylston
Joseph's Southern Food is the new mouth of the South. From their cramped, mostly carryout space, partners Joe Johnson and Rick Bousman serve up the very best of Deep South cuisine. They do grill-fired burgers, catfish sandwiches, root-beer floats, fried shrimp, coleslaw, collard greens and cold peach cobbler. But their very best dish is the house-special fried-chicken dinner. Although it takes a little time to prepare, it's totally worth the wait: a three-piece, deep-fried chicken dinner done in a pot with the kind of thick and crispy crust that the Colonel could only dream about, with chunky mashed potatoes, good mac-and-cheese and a cup of sweet tea on ice included in the $8.49 price.

Joseph's Southern Food is the new mouth of the South. From their cramped, mostly carryout space, partners Joe Johnson and Rick Bousman serve up the very best of Deep South cuisine. They do grill-fired burgers, catfish sandwiches, root-beer floats, fried shrimp, coleslaw, collard greens and cold peach cobbler. But their very best dish is the house-special fried-chicken dinner. Although it takes a little time to prepare, it's totally worth the wait: a three-piece, deep-fried chicken dinner done in a pot with the kind of thick and crispy crust that the Colonel could only dream about, with chunky mashed potatoes, good mac-and-cheese and a cup of sweet tea on ice included in the $8.49 price.


Table 6
Cassandra Kotnik
"Mother and child reunion" is the best description we've heard so far for the Rocky Chicken dish at Table 6. It's a fried egg, done over-easy, on top of a fried chicken breast and leg that are mounted on a nest of fried potatoes and onions. The whole plate is very intellectual, very New American smartass, but also very tasty -- a special trick that Table 6 has mastered, and one that saves the place from collapsing under the weight of over-thinking. Credit chef Aaron Whitcomb for pulling off a cerebral bit of deconstruction that still works in terms of flavor: a tender piece of fried chicken, perfectly cooked, and an egg that, when broken, serves as the sauce. No wonder the tables at Table 6 are some of the most sought-after in town.

"Mother and child reunion" is the best description we've heard so far for the Rocky Chicken dish at Table 6. It's a fried egg, done over-easy, on top of a fried chicken breast and leg that are mounted on a nest of fried potatoes and onions. The whole plate is very intellectual, very New American smartass, but also very tasty -- a special trick that Table 6 has mastered, and one that saves the place from collapsing under the weight of over-thinking. Credit chef Aaron Whitcomb for pulling off a cerebral bit of deconstruction that still works in terms of flavor: a tender piece of fried chicken, perfectly cooked, and an egg that, when broken, serves as the sauce. No wonder the tables at Table 6 are some of the most sought-after in town.


Luciano's Pizza and Wings
The chicken wing took off in Buffalo, New York, so it's no wonder that the best chicken wings in town are made by a man who spent most of his life steeped in the near-mythological upstate New York pizza-and-wing scene. Kris Ferreri, owner of Luciano's Pizza and Wings, comes from a family whose Buffalo roots go back to the turn of the last century, and what he's brought to the Mile High City is a pitch-perfect copy of the best chicken wings in the world -- a fact that Ferreri never lets anyone forget. Available mild, medium or hot and served in multiples of ten with celery and blue-cheese sauce, just as God intended, Ferreri's wings are fried long, served steaming hot, and so good that even the most jaded Buffalo ex-pats have to admit that he's serving the real deal.

The chicken wing took off in Buffalo, New York, so it's no wonder that the best chicken wings in town are made by a man who spent most of his life steeped in the near-mythological upstate New York pizza-and-wing scene. Kris Ferreri, owner of Luciano's Pizza and Wings, comes from a family whose Buffalo roots go back to the turn of the last century, and what he's brought to the Mile High City is a pitch-perfect copy of the best chicken wings in the world -- a fact that Ferreri never lets anyone forget. Available mild, medium or hot and served in multiples of ten with celery and blue-cheese sauce, just as God intended, Ferreri's wings are fried long, served steaming hot, and so good that even the most jaded Buffalo ex-pats have to admit that he's serving the real deal.


Deluxe
Dylan Moore is one weird cat. He bailed on a promising career as a young chef, turning his back on the food world just when he, and California Cuisine, were at the height of their powers. But after more than a decade on the outside, he's picked up right up where he left off. At Deluxe, the food sometimes seems like we're still in 1991 in the L.A. Basin. This oddness is most pronounced in the masa-fried oyster shooters on Deluxe's small-plates menu -- an offering right out of the Jeremiah Tower playbook, with a half-dozen shellfish fried in masa and each served in pho spoons with a dot of salsa fresca and a blazing-hot smoked chile aioli. This dish may be on a time trip, but the destination is unbeatable. What comes around goes around.

Dylan Moore is one weird cat. He bailed on a promising career as a young chef, turning his back on the food world just when he, and California Cuisine, were at the height of their powers. But after more than a decade on the outside, he's picked up right up where he left off. At Deluxe, the food sometimes seems like we're still in 1991 in the L.A. Basin. This oddness is most pronounced in the masa-fried oyster shooters on Deluxe's small-plates menu -- an offering right out of the Jeremiah Tower playbook, with a half-dozen shellfish fried in masa and each served in pho spoons with a dot of salsa fresca and a blazing-hot smoked chile aioli. This dish may be on a time trip, but the destination is unbeatable. What comes around goes around.

Il Fornaio
Il Fornaio's crostini di polenta should go down in culinary history as one of the last, best, most original things anyone has managed to do with polenta, the must-have ingredient of the last decade. Here an order brings pan-fried squares -- like Italian finger sandwiches -- of crisp polenta topped with Italian ham, simple mozzarella, zucchini sliced thin as paper, Gorgonzola, prosciutto or mushrooms kicked up with a lace of black-truffle oil.

Il Fornaio's crostini di polenta should go down in culinary history as one of the last, best, most original things anyone has managed to do with polenta, the must-have ingredient of the last decade. Here an order brings pan-fried squares -- like Italian finger sandwiches -- of crisp polenta topped with Italian ham, simple mozzarella, zucchini sliced thin as paper, Gorgonzola, prosciutto or mushrooms kicked up with a lace of black-truffle oil.

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