For those addicted to the charms of the farmers' market, winter comes as a horrible shock. But thanks to Bonnie Smith, such guilty pleasures live on during the gloomy season at Goodness to Go, a tiny store fronting her backroom bakery at Quiche Factory Catering. In snow or sleet, addicts can buy such favorite summer-market treats as Big Mike's barbecue sauces, Loredana's Pestos, Oro Blanco goat cheese and Minnie Beasley's almond-lace cookies. A taste of spring in a bleak, bleak world.