The chicken mole, soft corn tacos filled with marinated meats, and a lamb shank the size of a small bulldozer are just a few of our favorite eats at El Trompito Taqueria. But before digging in, after we snatch our food off the counter, we make a beeline for the salsa bar, a freestanding contraption in the middle of the bright dining room. The contents are a romp through the mild and crazy-wild, although most of the salsas inspire a knee-jerking or tear-jerking reaction, thanks to the preponderance of chiles. But beneath the heat is also depths of flavor, and there are plenty of other items to counteract the flame: pickled carrots and onions, radishes, lime wedges and cilantro among them. The salsas are also available for purchase, and you'll want a vat of each one.