In the last decade or so, upcoming Parisian chefs striking out on their own have veered away from formal dining and prescribed menus of classics in favor of hipper enclaves and inventive takes on their inherently locavore cuisine. It's to these restaurants, collectively bundled under the label "bistronomy," that Morin pays homage, even if the restaurant doesn't use the French-invented term. Steeped in seasonal produce and abundant with delightful surprises, the menu takes diners on a playful romp through well-executed bites and indulgent dishes, none of which are quite as straightforward as they 0x000Aseem. Best to surrender your experience to the kitchen via one of the tasting menus — which will be crafted especially for you 0x000Aand different each time you dine. Don't ignore caviar and foie gras supplements (or spring for the apple-shaped foie gras terrine, an Instagram darling) and make sure to add one of the excellent potato-based sides to your main course. Turn over control of your drink pairings to the bar, too: They'll treat you to natural wines, funky ciders, and well-crafted cocktails that match just right.
Readers' Choice: LeRoux