Old Denver is fast disappearing, as massive apartment buildings pop up on former parking lots and retail complexes wipe out mom-and-pop stores. So raise a glass to Bastien's, a family-run business that dates back four generations and eight decades. Bastien's moved into its current incarnation in 1958; the architecture is classic mid-century modern, from the Googie roofline to the neon sign that greets passersby on Colfax. Inside, the restaurant doesn't seem much newer; even the menu is a blast from the past, with the sugar steak the house specialty. Wash it down with a stiff drink, and toast the days gone by.
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