When Jason McGovern opened Crush Pizza + Tap, his Highland pizzeria, he was considered a Chicago-style specialist — but over the years he's expanded his repertoire. Still, the man knows his dough, so whether you're going with his original round, deep-dish pie or the newer rectangular Sicilian, know that you're in for a well-risen, airy crust that's filling but not stodgy. And if a thinner crust is your thing, Crush also does an admirable hand-tossed pizza that's just as good as its breadier brethren.