There's something specifically urban about a walk-up pizza joint that makes you feel part of the neighborhood and in-the-know. Denver Pizza Company, occupying a brick bunker at 309 West 11th Avenue in the Golden Triangle, is one such place, where the guys behind the counter know your usual order before you even open your mouth, and where a couple of quick lunch slices will leave you thinking about pizza for the rest of the day — until you call in a whole pie pick-up or delivery for dinner.
East Denver will soon be in on the secret, as Denver Pizza Co. founder Andrew Dunlop has slated 908 Jersey Street in the Montclair neighborhood for his company's second outpost. Like the original, the new location will be a takeout-only operation, though Dunlop says the space is a little bigger on the inside; he's taking over a storefront that was once the kitchen entrance for the restaurant next door (currently Bertha's Baja Bistro).
Dunlop launched Denver Pizza Co. on July 4, 2009, and explains that the choice to operate without a dining room was deliberate. "We just wanted to keep things simple and keep it focused on the quality of the pizza," he notes.
The pizza itself leans toward the New York side of the spectrum, but Dunlop says he's never really considered his pies to be of a specific style. "I've heard from a few people from the East Coast that we're more like New Jersey pizza, if that means anything," he adds. Dough made with Coors Banquet beer definitely makes the product a little more local, and specialties like the East Colfax (sauced with green chile) and the Cream Cheesman (topped with bacon, pepperoncini and cream cheese) nod to the city's history. The Mt. Shavano and 5280 house spice blends make their way onto pizzas as well as baked wings.
Whether New York, New Jersey or a Denver original, the pies balance generous amounts of cheese and sauce on a floppy crust with just the right amount of chew. The owner points out that the majority of business is whole pizzas, with "tons of catering orders," and that pizza by the slice is more of a neighborhood perk for regulars.
Dunlop hopes to open the new Denver Pizza Co. in early May, and then has plans for continued growth. "It's always been our plan to get our pizza to as many people as possible," he says.