Beer Bars Get Creative to Survive a Changing Industry

With the closing of Falling Rock last year and the recent decision by Freshcraft to shutter its doors, the pandemic has taken a toll on some of Colorado's most recognizable beer bars. But from the ashes of one of the most challenging multi-year periods craft beer bars have ever faced come stories of success. This summer has also already brought a few new names to the mix, with the recent openings of Boombox Brew Bar and Ephemeral Rotating Taproom showing that Denver is as creative as ever when it comes to libation houses.

Drew and Leah Watson opened Hops & Pie almost twelve years ago at 3920 Tennyson Street, in a neighborhood that was very different back then. "[The building] used to be a gambling hall; there were magnetic locks on the doors," says Drew. That sense of edge has completely disappeared over the years, with dozens of new condos replacing modest single-family homes and dated storefronts disappearing in favor of hip new businesses.

The ability to adapt to an ever-changing marketplace has helped the Watsons survive the last few years and look ahead to better days. So has the emphasis on keeping the space full rather than squeezing a set profit margin off of every single product. One primary way that Hops & Pie accomplishes this is by running some of the best specials in town throughout the week. "We always try to put the emphasis on quality and not being greedy," says Drew. "We've always felt it was better for the culture and environment to keep people busy, to keep rooms full."

The focus on keeping a lively bar means that finding the right employees is key. "It's how we hire, staff and train," says Leah. "A big thing is dealing with families — we see a lot of the same people in the neighborhood. Recognizing those regulars and knowing their likes and dislikes is important."

Drew points out that Leah, along with Hops & Pie's general manager, Crystal, have a certain standard that they require the team to meet. "Sequence of service, paying attention to people's expressions and what they are doing," explains Drew. "Before this, we were fine-dining kids, and that's all we knew, so we brought that here. Hospitality is a big piece."
Fire on the Mountain was very well suited to the challenge of the pandemic. It found success at both its ten-year-old Highland location, at 3801 West 32nd Avenue, and its Wash Park outpost, at 300 South Logan Street, which opened in 2019. Scott Conley, Wash Park's bar manager and beer buyer, credits the inherent setup of both locations with pandemic success. "We're essentially fast-casual with wings, so we were already primed for to-go food and pandemic-era-type service," he notes. "We were constantly changing operations too, to make sure we were able to stay open. To-go beer helped as well, but we offered delivery service too," he points out.

Conley is an industry veteran, with stints at Backcountry Pizza and Tap House, as well as LoDo's Bar & Grill. He also helped start Goed Zuur, the sour-focused beer bar in RiNo. "The industry is a lot tougher today," Conley admits. "There's a lot of beer and a lot more beer-focused bars. You have more competing locations with great beer."

So how does Fire on the Mountain stay at the top of its game? "I think it's important to make sure that you have a great [beer] list," Conley says. Each Fire on the Mountain location has its own beer buyer, and that beer buyer is also the on-site bar manager. This approach allows each spot to have a more personalized selection, and it increases quality control. "We're not afraid to pull a beer off that doesn't taste right," notes Conley, referring to an uncommon, but certain occurrence for a bar that moves through plenty of beer each week.
Pour Tap House, located at 12433 East 104th Place in Commerce City, has found pandemic success by concentrating on its own backyard. "We're focused on bringing our community and neighbors together in a relaxed, fun environment," says general manager and beverage director Matt Meyer. Pour has fully leaned into being a local hangout, with weekly events like trivia and music bingo, as well as the occasional puppy adoption and fundraiser. Pour extends this thought process to food, too. "There's a severe lack of independent restaurants in our area, so we bring in food trucks seven days a week," adds Meyer.

The tap list is also curated to the area. "We make it a point to have something on draft for everyone," Meyer notes, "from the seasoned vet who enjoys gueuze or barrel-aged stouts to people just discovering craft beer that want something more approachable." Meyer does a lot of research on what is currently available and what's coming up soon, paying particular attention to seasonal changes and focusing on relationships with distributors and breweries. He says all this is important in creating a well-rounded draft list.

So what does the future hold for the local beer bar industry? One thing is certain: more creativity. Hops & Pie is experimenting with sourdough pizza pop-ups, Fire on the Mountain is retooling its beer specials to offer most drafts for $4 weekly, and Pour Tap House is preparing for its fourth anniversary in late August, with plans for a cornhole tournament, smoked hog and a raffle giveaway.

And while many fans are still mourning the closure of Falling Rock, not everyone is treating it like a death in the industry — including Drew Watson at Hops & Pie. "Falling Rock was the pioneer," he says. "Chris [Black] put in almost 25 years. I don't think it should be looked at as a failure, because that place was amazing, and if it wasn't for them, the rest of us wouldn't be here."

For more places to sip brews in Colorado, check out our list of the ten best beer bars in the state.