Drink of the Week

I love a great dive, and at fifty-plus years young, Club 404 is one of the all-time best dives in Denver. Jerry Feld bought the bar on his twentieth birthday and has been there ever since (although his uncle had to run it for the first year, until Jerry was legal). Today the place is still a family affair, with Feld's children helping out the veteran, sassy servers who take care of the crowd of cheerful regulars. And you'll be a regular, too, after just a taste of Club 404's down-home ambience, not to mention its four-hour happy hour (3 to 7 p.m.) and all the daily specials listed on dry-erase boards on the front and back walls. Don't miss T-bone night, when you get a giant steak with all the trimmings -- and feel absolutely no shame when you slather on the steak sauce. A giant margarita will set you back just a mysterious $3.33, but tequila purists should go for Corzo on the rocks ($5.50). A hefty shot of the classy tequila was just the thing to wash down an order of french fries slathered with green chile and cheese. And those spuds must be good for you, if Jerry himself has been going strong all these years.