The menu is certainly fish-centric -- buoyed up (no pun intended) by varieties of oysters offered in all their seasonal splendor -- but last month Jax also kicked off a Sunday brunch menu, and for a fishhouse, it makes damn good eggs. I tried the deviled eggs, muscled up by the kitchen with white truffle and served with slices of fresh watermelon (which may just have been a way to assemble a nice-looking plate -- the small watermelon wedges surrounding a pile of microgreens -- but also worked as a strange and wonderful pairing of flavors); followed those with a few gratis peel-and-eat shrimp dusted with spices and served with the house's custom cocktail sauce; then went for an omelette of lobster claw meat, thick-cut bacon and damp tomatoes laid limply over a pile of home fries and dressed with a fall of crème fraîche. I skipped the mimosas and bloody Marys in favor of a cuppa joe, but since the brunch menu devotes an entire page to beverages -- and most of them of the alcoholic variety -- it's clear that the good folks at Jax understand that the only real reason for brunch is to give a fella an excuse to drink before noon on a Sunday.
And if you can eat lobster at the same time, so much the better. $-$$$
