Cafe Society

The Den Farm -- and a new greenhouse -- gets ready to sprout

Owning a farm, says Yasu Kizaki, was always a dream for him and his brother, Toshi, the owners of two Japanese restaurants on South Pearl Street: Sushi Den and Izakaya Den. "Our parents were farmers," Yasu recounts. "It's been a vision for a long time, but it's hard work."

Dreams became reality last year, when the siblings bought a farm in Brighton where hoped to produce vegetables to supplement their imported fish. To help, they called on Nobi Sakai, a sushi chef turned farmer, and Howard Ochsner, a former Coors beer-tester who'd managed the Den Farm property under its previous owners.