Chi One On

Suddenly, Chi Bistro was being hailed as a restaurant featuring 'American classics with a flavor of French Indochina'—which ought to have meant Cafe du Monde and cr�me caramel, pho, fish heads and pigs roasted and redolent of gunpowder and Zippo lighter fuel, but didn't, of course, except for an Asian bouillabaisse that managed to smash together the flavors of coastal France and Southeast Asia with all the cool gentility of a sledgehammer blow.

And that Asian bouillabaisse barely moves the needle when it comes to the awful things coming out of the kitchen at Chi Bistro, which I review this week. Thai chicken wings, Shanghai ratatouille and spaetzle? Oh, my...

After that, I decided to cleanse my palate by making a few laps of South Federal Boulevard, where I documented the changing times of Denver's original Asian neighborhood. Think it's great how that little nouvelle pho shop just opened right down the street from the mom-and-pop Asian market? Check out the February 22 Bite Me and tell me if you still feel the same way when you're done. -- Jason Sheehan