First Look

Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que Owners Open City & Country Deli This Week

Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que was a near-instant hit when it opened on South Downing in early 2015, earning our award for Best Barbecue this year and selling out of smoked meats daily well before the dinner hour. Now, owners Coy and Rachael Webb are capitalizing on the success of their tiny eatery and have added a second spot on the block. City & Country Deli & Sausage Co. opened this week as a takeout deli and sandwich shop featuring housemade sausages and other cured meats.

The shop is small and dominated by a deli case stocked with the likes of elk bologna, pastrami, corned beef, slow-roasted eye of round, bacon, molasses ham, pecan-smoked andouille and other fresh sausages in flavors as far ranging as Italian (both sweet and spicy), duck a l'orange, lamb mint chimichurri, crawfish and smoked-pork boudain, and blueberry elk breakfast links — all made in-house.

There's also a roster of sandwiches stuffed with pastrami, corned beef, roast turkey and egg salad, each given a working-class name like the Store Clerk, the Plow Hand and the Barnyard Brawl.

Rachael Webb explains that City & Country is designed to resemble her grandfather's grocery store in small-town Illinois; features include rows of antique chef's knives, a working vintage refrigerator stocked with cold drinks, and all manner of antique cans, jars and crates. Coy's inspiration came from "the delis of old that took the time to cure and make their own deli meats and sausages, and families that made their own pickles, pickled vegetables and mustards," Rachael explains. There are a couple of small tables for neighbors who want to sit down for a sandwich and a wide array of house pickles; the couple hopes to add a front patio at some point. 

Coy grew up in Plainview, Texas, and is a trained chef with years of restaurant experience under his belt, so his barbecue at Roaming Buffalo two doors down has Texas influences but also relies on Colorado for inspiration, with lamb and bison featured alongside more typical brisket, ribs and pork shoulder. His training and experience are apparent at the new shop, too, especially in the wide variety of products available daily. City & Country is open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays.